The village of Paignton had its outlet to the sea at Roundham for centuries. Access to it was along a raised causeway on the edge of the marsh and was used from medieval times onwards. By the 16th century the whole was known as "Fisher Street" from the junction of Winner Street to the quay. This is confirmed by a deed which shows that when Nicholas Hunt purchased the orchard called Whitestone in 1822 to build a house (the present Tor Sands Hotel) in Fisher Street, the name "Sands Road" coming into use many years later.

The earliest documentary reference to the harbour is in the Survey of 1567: "Land lying at Rowneham ... which they hold for the convenience of fishermen as a market place for the sale of fish". [The Harbour Lights complex may be on the site of the buildings shown on the Survey]. Seine-netting of fish was well established by the 16th century and "fish cellars" had been built in many places along the coast. The fishermen's dwelling houses were on the first floor above them and were reached by a flight of stone steps outside. Evidence of these can still be seen on the north side of the Harbour.

The quay was under the charge of the gardianus de les keys. He could have lived above a fish cellar but was more likely to have a more pretentious dwelling, perhaps the one now called Cliff Cottage. A surviving document dated 1621 shows that John Barons was then "Kay Warden". [His account book still has to be fully transcribed]. For centuries Dartmouth was the principal port of South Devon and when, in 1338, a charter granted the Black Prince "the waters of Dartmouth", this included "Peynton", among other Torbay villages. Charles Patterson suggests that these related to customs dues only and that the ports of "Dertmouth, Brikesham, Peynton and Totenes" existed in their own right as each was ordered, individually in 1347, to levy a subsidy to Edward, Prince of Wales, of "sixpence on every pound's worth of tin" taken out from them. Nevertheless, it is impossible to assess to any degree the part played by the seamen and fishermen of Paignton in the maritime story. One incident has been documented. Among the many licenses granted to vessels carrying pilgrims to the shrine of St. James of Compostella in Spain was one for a Paignton vessel, the La Charite, belonging to Otto Chambernoune, William Gilbert and Richard Gilbert. Her master was Peter Cok but her port of embarkation and return was stated to be Dartmouth.

A deed dated 10th July 1654 (during the Commonwealth) confirms that Stoke Gabriel, Marldon, Compton and Kingskerswell were within the Manor of Paignton's boundaries: "An also ffree ffyshing in the water and River of Dart, adionynge or lyeing against the villages and Lands called Aish, Stoke Gabriel and Sandridge. And also ffree ffishing in the deep sea, against Paington in Torbay, and upon Paington Sands".

By about 1830 the old harbour was derelict because "from Goodrington crossing the cliffs we soon reach the creek called 'Paignton Pier' from the remains of an old pier which formerly existed there... A short distance on we pass the station of the Coastguard Service and then enter the extensive sands of Paignton". [Paignton must have been an early location for the Service after its formation in 1822, possibly because of the smugglers operating at Goodrington and elsewhere].

The growing town needed new facilities so in 1837 the Paington Harbour Company was formed. Its prospectus estimated the cost of a new harbour to be:

Erecting 2 quays, harbour wall, etc.£3423.10s
Contingencies, Act etc.£1575.10s.

Income prospects were good too. One year's traffic would be:

Later, the Paington Quay & Harbour Act 1837 (I Vict.chap.1) received Royal Assent, work starting on the construction of the quays soon afterwards. Several well-known families appear in its text among the names of directors, etc.

By 23rd April 1839 the piers and other works were so far completed that two schooners laden with culm and coal were able to discharge their cargoes within it.

During the World War 1 Mr Gale's boatyard turned over to war work; this included conversions of pleasure craft to war use and later, building whalers for the Royal Navy.
The harbour remained in private hands throughout the 19th and well into the 20th century. In June 1923 the Council attempted to purchase the Company, offering £2,500. This sum was rejected and so was a further one made a year later.

A letter in the Company's records, dated 1930, confirms that the directors gave permission for a flying boat (to be used for pleasure flights) to be moored "provided it was outside and clear of the harbour entrance".

Further negotiations between the Council and the Harbour Company did not take place until 1935, the final transfer to the Council taking place under the terms of the Paignton Harbour Provisional Order (Confirmation) Act 1936. At the same time the only woman harbourmaster in the British Isles at that time was appointed, Miss Stella Gale. The company was wound up after nearly a century's existence. Almost immediately, a major "clean-up" of the area started; it was reported that 14 lorry-loads of debris was being removed. Among other improvements was the conversion of "The Old Customs House", the former Coastguard Station, into public conveniences.

Just before World War 2, in 1939, the final part of foreshore in front of Paignton Club was acquired and, in five months, the wall and promenade were completed between the sea front and harbour. The formal opening of the scheme was scheduled for May 1940 but could not take place because of the War situation. A commemorative plaque had to suffice. As noted elsewhere, between 1940 and 1944 defence works were put up around the harbour and on the beaches but all were removed by January 1945.



© copyright John Pike

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